Argentina’s been facing a similar dilemma to New Zealand in recent years with its over-dependence on one signature grape variety.
But while the world is thirsty for Argentinean Malbec in the same way that it’s still craving kiwi Sauvignon Blanc, is this really an issue?
If so, how should the Argentineans go about changing this?
Mendoza comes to London.
I recently had the pleasure of being invited by the British Argentine Chamber of Commerce (BACC) to an exclusive Mendoza Trade Mission tasting in London.
The event was specifically aimed at the luxury hospitality sector and wine experts. It showcased, in the BACC’s own words, ‘the best wine producers from Mendoza’.
Half a dozen of Mendoza’s elite exhibited a selection of their wines, carefully chosen to demonstrate the new thinking that’s taking place in Argentina right now.
A couple of producers’ wines currently reach the UK but only one in any meaningful quantity; Susana Balbo.
Sustainability on every front.
I spent some time talking to a few of the producers while tasting their wines, and attended a fascinating Masterclass themed ‘What comes after traditional Malbec?’.
What really struck me is that there’s a strong sense of pioneering spirit and a determination to lead the country in a more sustainable direction.
Sustainable not only in a holistic and environmental way, but in a broader economical way too.
Exporting for a sustainable future.
Like most countries around the world at the moment, Argentina’s economy is dealing with its own inflation issues. Though I have to say at around 70% year on year, it makes ours in the UK pale into insignificance!
With a seriously devalued currency, this effectively means that Argentina’s producers cannot rely on their domestic market if they’re to have a profitable future.
The US is still a vital export market but their own economic downturn will likely put the brakes on sales growth.
Europe and Asia are becoming increasingly important targets for growth. However, the Argentine producers will be only too aware how established and sophisticated these markets already are. They’ll need to really stand out from the crowd if they’re to succeed.
I’ve always had a soft spot for Argentina’s ‘non-Malbec’ wines, so it’s exciting to see a greater focus on these.
Diversify and do it well.
The premise of today’s event was to highlight how these elite producers are diversifying from the rest of the pack and taking the country forward.
Susana Balbo Wines led the charge by showing more white wines on their table than reds. In fact, Ana Balbo went one step further and focused solely on Torrontés during the masterclass, which she co-hosted, showing four distinctly contrasting styles.
Included in the mix was an amphora-fermented orange wine, a first for me. Also a barrel-fermented Torrontés with more than a nod to Burgundy.
All four wines shown were outstanding for their respective price points. They also offered a valuable insight into why Susana Balbo is at the vanguard of the Argentinean white wine revolution.
While most producers are dedicating between 7-15% of their production to white varietals, for Susana Balbo it’s far more significant. Whites and rosés combined account for 30-40% of their total production and exports. This isn’t an experiment, it’s a carefully considered strategy and one that’s clearly paying off.
Seeking the ideal match between grape varieties and soils.
One of the other exhibitors, Alpasión, is a new and relatively small winery. They’re based in the desirable Los Chacayes sub-region of the Uco Valley.
As an aside, the GI (Geographic Indication) for Los Chacayes was only formalised in 2017. Whilst it covers a relatively small area, it’s one of the most diverse in terms of topographic and geological ranges.
Matching varietals with the right site and soil composition is what obsesses most of the producers based in Los Chacayes, including Alpasión. They’ve dedicated just over half of their vineyards to Malbec.
The rest is planted with no fewer than 8 other varietals. These include Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and the increasingly popular Cabernet Franc. They place as much importance on these alternative varietals as they do on Malbec.
I was impressed with just how individual and pure their wines are and I deliberately ignored the Malbecs. Though I’m sure they’re equally as accomplished.
Turn up the terroir.
The subject of terroir in Argentina is well documented, especially its uniqueness. One consistent theme came across palpably during the course of the afternoon. Every producer here is driven to get the best expression of their respective wines following meticulous research into site selection.
Ana’s Torrontés tasting drove this point home. More specifically, the final wine, the 2021 Gualtallary Blanco, which obliterated my pre-conceived expectations. It bore no resemblance whatsoever to the overtly floral, slightly saline versions I’d tasted from Salta in the past.
This wine is subtle in aromatics. More citrus and less florals. It’s taut, linear, powerful and yet beautifully refined. It puts me in mind of decent Grosses Gewächs Rieslings from the Mosel and Nahe.
This has all been achieved by planting at higher altitude (1600 masl) on poor sandy and calcareous soils. Coupled with exceptionally low yields (6,000 kg/ha when Torrontés can achieve 24,000), along with a low impact winemaking regime. It was an eye-opening example of what can be achieved under the guiding hand of a true visionary.
Beyond organics.
Susana Balbo has converted all her own vineyards to organic viticulture. Alpasión are on track to achieving certification for theirs. Bodega Araujo in San Rafael, one of the other exhibitors, attained their organic status in 2021. This is all very positive news.
Another exhibitor, SuperUco, also in Los Chacayes, has gone one step further. The Michelini brothers have created a fully biodynamic boutique winery.
Their mission is to show the purest expression of the Uco Valley’s wines. Hence the name (also inspired by the ‘Super Tuscan’ concept).
Redefining Malbec.
Leo Bonetto Michelini, who co-hosted the masterclass, drew amusement from his response to the question, “What comes after traditional Malbec?”.
“My answer may disappoint you but maybe it’s more Malbec”. However he did caveat it with, “But we have to change the vision, we have to change our own opinion of Malbec.”
He explained that they’re focused on obtaining the purest expressions of varietals and blends that fully express their origin. In other words, “bottling landscapes”.
The four reds that we tasted, from four separate sites across the Uco, did indeed show clear differentiating characteristics. They were hugely impressive too.
On reflection, this was a truly enlightening event showcasing some exciting producers who I hope will gain more visibility in the UK market.
Some of Mendoza’s most forward-thinking producers.
There are Chardonnay lovers and there are those in the ‘ABC’ – Anything but Chardonnay camp. Which side do you belong to?
If you consider yourself an ‘ABC’-er, I’m willing to wager that you don’t detest all Chardonnays. How can I possibly draw that conclusion?
On the basis that Chardonnay is the second most-planted white wine variety in the world, after Spain’s Airén, logic tells me it can’t be that unpopular…
In fact, it’s possible that you’ve drunk and enjoyed Chardonnay without even realising it.
White Burgundy (perhaps a Chablis or a Mâcon for example), Champagne, English Sparkling Wine…Chardonnay is either the sole or partial component.
“But it doesn’t taste anything like that Californian stuff we picked up the other night in the convenience store. How can that be?”
Chardonnay is easily influenced
Chardonnay has a very neutral flavour profile so it’s easily influenced by external factors to add character as well as complexity and structure. The most influential factors are climate, soil type, fermentation/maturation vessel (especially oak barrels), whether or not to allow the wine to go through malolactic fermentation* and whether or not to stir the lees**.
Any combination of these influences will have a profound impact on the final wine and it’s down to the skill of the winemaker to strike the right balance.
* The conversion of the sharper malic acid in the grapes (as found in apples), to the softer lactic acid (as found in milk)
** Dead yeast cells resulting from the completed fermentation
Like cool climate wine?
In the case of the examples I gave earlier (White Burgundy, Champagne and English fizz), these are all considered cool-climate styles. The Californian wine is not, although don’t immediately assume that you can’t find cool climate Californian Chardonnays because there are plenty.
Why Chardonnay is a winemaker’s flexible friend
Wine producers love working with Chardonnay for a number of reasons. It’s easy to cultivate for a start and will grow pretty much anywhere from England to New Zealand. It’s also a high-yielding variety, something which particularly suits sparkling wine producers. They’re less concerned with maximising flavour concentration before the grapes are harvested. Most sparkling wines’ flavour develops during the second fermentation phase.
For most quality still wine producers, the opposite would actually be true. As balance and flavour before harvesting is paramount, yields are limited through careful pruning and techniques like ‘green harvesting’. This is where excess bunches of grapes are cut away before the ripening phase so that the vine can concentrate all its efforts into fewer bunches. It’s exactly the same principle as for tomatoes.
Chardonnay also makes a great blending partner, because it compliments rather than clashes with other grape varieties. Think Semillon Chardonnay from Oz, Chenin Blanc Chardonnay in South Africa and of course the most coveted blend with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in Champagne and now English fizz too.
Nowadays there’s more elegance and choice of style
Throughout my selling career, I promoted Chardonnays under various guises from all corners of the world. But there was a fairly consistent theme that linked them together. They tended to be in a more restrained or unoaked style as opposed to the overripe, over-processed and heavily-oaked wines that damaged the grape’s reputation in the 80s and 90s.
Pre-Millennium consumer rejection of those flabby, bittersweet, oak-pimped Chardonnays was pretty widespread. In response, a movement emerged among a new generation of winemakers in favour of lean, almost skeletal expressions of Chardonnay.
It seems Australia suffered the deepest psychological scars left by the ABC movement and some factions have been pushing hard towards the other extreme just to prove a point.
As we know, time is a great healer and fortunately common sense is now prevailing. We now see a lot more restrained yet balanced examples being made, naturally following Burgundy as the yardstick, which is to be welcomed in my opinion. Especially as decent Burgundy is moving out of reach for the majority of us due to soaring prices.
The flavour profiles of Chardonnay’s influencers
Running through the external influences I mentioned earlier, this is what you can expect to smell and taste:
Climate
A cooler climate/vintage will emphasise the citrus and green apple elements in the grape variety along with floral notes like jasmine, acacia and citrus blossom. A warmer climate/vintage will lead to more yellow and orange-skinned fruits like peach, nectarine, melon and mango.
Soil
Limestone and chalk will give salinity, sharper linear acidity and flavours of lemon juice, lemon rind and apple. Richer, more fertile soils will add textural weight and softer acidity and will emphasise the more tropical fruit notes.
Oak
New or second-use oak casks will add aromas and flavours of toast, vanilla, coffee, clove and butterscotch. Third-use casks and older will add more oatmeal, hazelnut and smoky notes.
Malolactic Fermentation
Expect butter and creamy milk characteristics.
Lees stirring (Bâtonnage)
This will add a creamy texture and yeasty notes to the wine as well as brioche flavours.
If you’ve never tasted Chardonnay or you think you’re an ABC-er, I hope I’ve managed to convince you enough to try some of the new wave of cool-climate Chardonnays out there.
For more insight on where to find some of the best value cool-climate Chardonnays, read Kick-ass Chardonnays for Under £18. If you can afford the odd splurge, you might be interested in reading my travel notes when I visited Maison Chanzy and Château de Fuissé in Burgundy.
Continuing my notes on this rising star, here’s where I got more than a glimpse of some of the mid to higher end wines as well as a couple of great value Pinots worth seeking out.
Here are my thoughts on the seven reds tasted and when I think they’ll be best enjoyed (in the same order tasted):
2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Les Fortunés
Lovely lifted aromas of cherry, raspberry and blueberry come straight from the glass. In the mouth, you almost get the sense that it hasn’t been manipulated. It’s fresh and vibrant with bright fruit and nicely rounded, light-weight tannins. The fruit is neither savoury nor sweet, it just feels very harmonious. A fine example of a Régionale Bourgogne that punches above its weight. Ideal now until 2024.
2018 Santenay Les Cornières
The heat of the vintage shows in this wine in the form of its advanced development. There’s a whiff of farmyard and gamey aromas that are characteristic of ageing Burgundy. In the mouth, I can taste slightly stewed black cherries, like you’d find in a baked pie. The tannins are earthy and grippy, perhaps a little rustic. There’s a touch of astringency on the finish but not in a bad way. There’s a nice density to the wine that would certainly pair well with quite richly flavoured dishes. I’d be tempted to drink with a meaty dish in order to soak up the tannins. Ideal now until 2024.
2019 Santenay Premier Cru Beaurepaire
There’s a distinctive aroma of wild mushroom with assorted red berries that I find really appealing. This is quite a step up from the previous wine in terms of its multi-layered texture, ripe grippy tannins and its overall brightness and expressive fruit flavours. Like its white counterpart, I enjoyed this a lot. Enjoy from 2023-32+.
2019 Givry Premier Cru Le Champ Lalot
A south-east facing vineyard at the northern edge of the appellation. The aromas are full and expressive with violets and blackberry notes dominating. Reminds me a bit of the 2018 Mercurey Les Caraby that I recently drank but this doesn’t have the opulence due to the vintage difference. Also, a little more delicate on the finish. Ideal now until 2024.
2019 Maranges Premier Cru La Fussière
The Maranges AOC is relatively new (granted in 1988) and lesser known too, so has become popular with young winemakers who can’t afford the land prices elsewhere in the region. It spans three villages, Cheilly-lès-Maranges, Dezize-lès-Maranges and Sampigny-lès-Maranges and includes 7 Premier Crus of which this is one. There’s the faintest hint of farmyard on the nose mingled with mixed red fruits which I really like. The tannins are ripe and well-knit with the acid and fruit. This is actually quite delicious and terrific value. Ideal now until 2026.
2014 Échezeaux Grand Cru
One of the larger Grand Cru vineyards in the region, quality is notoriously variable but the source here is clearly very good. There’s some lovely development and the aromas are heady and powerful. The wine evolves slowly in the glass and I can detect roasted fennel, grilled meat, coffee and nuts. There’s great complexity and the flavours are big. There’s plenty of wild berries with that meatiness and the warmth of roasted coffee on the finish. Elegant and silky, this is a treat. Ideal now until 2034+.
2013 Chambertin Grand Cru
One of the smaller Grand Cru vineyards and considered one of the finest, soils consist of chalky, pebbly topsoil over a largely limestone base. Like the Échezeaux, there’s plenty of development here both in terms of colour and aroma. Incredible perfume leaves the glass and has you seduced immediately so that you know you’re in for something special! This is elegant, refined and charming with gentle power and immense concentration of mixed red fruits, spices, a touch of sandalwood and dark chocolate on the finish. The flavours linger long in the mouth after swallowing and the perfume carries on with them. I feel like breaking into poetry! Ideal now until 2038+.
Whilst I’m coming down from my Chambertin ‘high’ and trying to work out how much I can justify spending on bottles to put away back at home, I tell Nicolas that we would very much like to revisit the main cellars in Bouzeron on a future trip as I’m keen to spend some time with Max, to find out more about his influence and his aspirations for these fabulous wines.
For more background on this progressive producer, click here
Pierre-Eric Jolly represents something of a dichotomy. On the one hand he’s a traditionalist, valuing time-honoured techniques and craftsmanship. On the other he’s an innovator, tirelessly looking for ways to do things differently. All in the quest for superior quality or improved sustainability.
The First Time I Met Pierre-Eric
I first met Pierre-Eric in 2014 at the London Wine Fair while I was working for ABS Wine Agencies. He’d just appointed us to be his new UK distributor.
Being born in similar vintages and sharing a similar sense of humour, we struck up an immediate rapport. I was hugely impressed with his range of Champagnes and found his entrepreneurial spirit highly inspiring. Consequently, I found it easy to promote and sell his story as well as his fabulous champagnes to my clients.
A Jolly Japanese Connection!
I clearly wasn’t the only one that formed this opinion. In Japan, they LOVE Pierre-Eric and his range. They were his biggest export customer for some years. Pierre-Eric has built a very special relationship with his importer and their customers, making annual sales trips.
His commitment and offer of hands-on support earned him some incredible culinary hospitality along with the solid sales.
My First Visit to René Jolly
I managed to co-ordinate a visit on my way back from a French adventure. I’d been cycling through Burgundy exploring the wines of small growers and burning calories pedalling around the rolling hills.
Pierre-Eric and his family had just arrived back from their summer holiday in the south of France, so we were all pretty relaxed!
We finally arrived in Landreville at 7.30pm, half an hour later than scheduled due to a satnav malfunction. Something that Google Maps was particularly adept at in France!
After the greetings and intros, Pierre-Eric took us around his set-up and gave us the full potted history. I recollected most of the back story, but nothing beats hearing it explained while walking through the cellars. Especially when you can visualise each stage of the elaboration process.
Some Fascinating Discoveries
There were a few new discoveries during our tour that particularly stood out for me. The first concerns the large automated 4000 Kg Coquard wine press and its significance.
The second is Pierre-Eric’s separate red winemaking cellar. The third is just how much influence the crown cap has on the champagne’s evolution as it goes through its second fermentation.
The traditional basket press. Pierre-Eric uses three generations of Coquard wine presses in his cellars.
Pressing Matters!
When Pierre-Eric took over running the family estate in 2000, aged just 26, he received an ominous phone call. It was the CIVC (the champagne region’s governing body) to say that his father’s press was too small to be used for the 2001 harvest.
The implication was that they were being disallowed from pressing any grapes that year unless they purchased a larger press. Pierre-Eric immediately picked up the phone and contacted Coquard…
Coquard, the famous regional wine press manufacturer, had literally gone bust the year before! Their traditional basket presses had become outdated and subsequently displaced by a handful of competitors. Firms like Willmes, Vaslin and Bücher had flooded the market with their larger automated presses.
One of Coquard’s engineers, with the help of five colleagues, was gambling on a design he’d come up with. He managed to secure a loan from the bank and was able to build and trial a small prototype.
The trial was successful.
The engineer had just drawn up detailed plans of the new automated press when Pierre-Eric’s call came through.
The upshot is that Pierre-Eric placed an order within 15 minutes of being shown the plans. Coquard won their first order and Pierre-Eric secured a means to produce a harvest in 2001.
Coquard subsequently took orders for a further 4 or 5 presses in 2000. Now they sell 40 every year with a 3 year waiting list!
The Foundation of the Champagne Industry in 30 Seconds
Pierre-Eric explained in about 30 seconds how the Champagne industry was established and why it’s proven so successful. It was essentially built on three pillars. One representing the growers and champagne houses. One representing the engineers and manufacturers of winemaking equipment and the third pillar representing the banks that financed it all. Each party contributed equally in driving the industry forward.
How fitting that this system is still very much in play, just as it was 300 or so years ago.
Making Red Wine in Champagne? Pull the Other One
Believe it or not, the most common way to make a pink champagne is by adding a small amount of still red Pinot Noir.
These Rosé d’Assemblage champagnes are popular with producers because they do one of two things. Firstly, they increase the body and fruitiness of the champagne in a very controllable way. They also maintain a consistent, desirable colour, year in year out.
Pierre-Eric produces a still red Pinot Noir for this very purpose. However, he uses it not for one, but two rosé champagnes; his Rosé d’Assemblage and Cuvée RJ Rosé.
So good is his Pinot Noir that when he took over in 2000, he sold 400 litres to Champagne Mumm. They came back in 2002 for a further 2,000 litres. A few years later, they offered him a contract and said “if you build the vats, we’ll buy the wine”.
So in 2006, Pierre-Eric created a dedicated red wine cellar, separated from his main cellars. Something unheard of in Champagne.
Coincidentally, he had just planted some new vineyards to Pinot Noir too so the timing was fortuitous.
The cellar is now 15 years old, yet it still looks brand new. Pierre-Eric continues to supply Mumm, making him one of only five red wine suppliers to this famous house.
Adding Pinot Noir to the champagne during production increases body and fruitiness in a controllable way.
Crowning Glory – How Crown Caps Affect Champagne Evolution
Picture a regular bottle of beer with a metal crown cap. Pop the cap with an opener. There’s a hiss as the trapped air in the neck escapes and away you go. If, like me, you think that cap makes the perfect closure because it hermetically-seals the bottle, think again.
According to Pierre-Eric, the crown cap on a maturing champagne bottle actually allows a tiny amount of air inside. This then reacts with the yeast and further enhances the wine’s development. This is extremely important because if there is no air interaction, the champagne won’t taste nearly as good.
He goes on to explain that through a chemical process, the force of the CO2 pushing against the cap, as it tries to escape, actually allows the air into the bottle. “It’s like adding a sugar in your coffee, the coffee will go up because it’s sucked by the molecules, so the coffee is going up when you think it should go down”, he tells us.
It transpires there are around 40 different crown caps on the market today. Each one gives subtle differences to the final wine. In fact, the cap determines as much as 50% of the champagne’s flavour characteristics according to Pierre-Eric.
He’s trialled numerous caps against the one his father selected 40 years ago. Following detailed analyses available today, that wasn’t back then, Pierre-Eric chose to retain the original cap. No surprise that he has subsequently put his name to it so that it remains theirs.
“You can work however you want in the vineyard but the cap will do 50% of the work for you.”
Pierre-Eric Jolly
In over 25 years of working in the wine industry, including three representing some prestigious champagne brands, this was a real revelation. I’d never heard about the cap playing such a pivotal role in the champagne’s development. Pierre-Eric reassured me that this fact is little known, even within the region.
Let the Crowns Fly!
We finally reached the little bottling area in the 18th Century vaulted cellars. Pierre-Eric proceeded to give us a demonstration of disgorging the traditional way, ‘a la volée’.
Here’s a quick explanation about what exactly disgorgement ‘a la volée’ is:
A highly skilled procedure, disgorging bottles ‘a la volée’ requires strong wrists! The neck of the bottle is chilled slightly before the bottle is held downwards. As soon as it’s opened, the bottle is brought upright again in a very swift action. This minimises the loss of liquid and, at the same time, expels the sediment under the pressure.
Universally, the majority of bottle-fermented sparklers are disgorged mechanically, which is far quicker and easier.
Most growers will only resort to the bygone skill of ‘a la volée’ in two scenarios. Firstly, for their very old vintages where greater care is required. And secondly, for small and larger format bottles that won’t fit the machinery.
Pierre-Eric does this across all his champagnes which puts him firmly in the minority!
First-class Entertainment!
The first disgorged bottle expelled the yeast quickly and made an audible ‘pop’.
This was a special 100% Pinot Noir ‘Blanc de Noirs’ that had been aged for no less than 12 years (!!). It showed incredible development in both aroma and taste, yet still retained wonderful freshness. The mousse, in other words the sensation of bubbles, was very fine and soft.
The second disgorged bottle, Pierre-Eric’s top Editio cuvée (2006), didn’t quite go as planned. Let’s just say we all took a brief expensive shower!
Fortunately, the taste was sublime and Pierre-Eric invited me to carry both bottles up to the terrace for us all to enjoy. Well I was hardly going to say no!
If you’ve never tried a Blanc de Noirs – Try this!
Think of it a bit like this. You pass on your prized Bolognese recipe to a friend because they want to really impress a hot date. Everything is going great guns until they come to the seasoning. The recipe asks for between ½ – 1 tsp (teaspoon) salt according to taste. In their haste, your friend interprets ‘tsp’ as tablespoon and adds accordingly. Now unless you have a particular liking or high threshold for salty food, that sauce isn’t going to impress!
Using the correct quantity of salt will enhance the flavour perfectly without leaving the overpowering salty taste. In this example, salt is both an enhancer and a spoiler.
The bottom line is, you have to know what you’re doing and work diligently with an eye for detail. The same mantra applies in winemaking and the controlled exposure of wine to oxygen.
How winemakers use oxygen to positive effect
I’ve been fortunate to visit many wineries, large and small, around the world. Two producers, in particular, stand out for highlighting the important role that oxygen plays in their wines.
The first producer used oxygen to help shape the organoleptic elements, that is the smell and taste.
The second highlighted the effect on the wine’s stability, i.e. its longevity once the bottle had been opened.
Scenario 1 (Micro-oxygenation)
In 2001, I was taken on a sales and buying trip that traversed north Italy and ended in Collio (Friuli). We visited the legendary white wine domain of Mario Schiopetto.
Mario is credited with kick-starting Italy’s quality white wine movement back in the mid-1960s. He was a true innovator and embraced technology as much as he respected and practised low-impact winemaking.
Mario’s daughter, Maria Angela, was excited to talk us through their, then, pioneering micro-oxygenation technology. It had been integrated into their immaculate, stainless steel tanks.
Stainless steel tanks are obviously non-porous, unlike oak and even concrete, so it makes it much more challenging for producers that want the benefits that micro-oxygenation offers.
By passing a controlled amount of oxygen through their white wines during fermentation, the wines are given yet another dimension.
This interaction with oxygen gives the wines even greater perfume intensity in their youth. It also amplifies the flavour components in the mouth building great depth. Tasting through their range was a truly humbling and unforgettable experience.
Scenario 2 (Oxidative winemaking)
Wind the clocks forward to March 2019.
While working for Alliance Wine, I was invited to assist with vintage on their own production projects in South Australia.
The old vine Grenache project under the Thistledown banner interested me most as these wines have gained widespread critical acclaim.
My mentor, Giles Cooke MW, is another staunch advocate of low intervention winemaking. He does as little ‘meddling or manipulation’ as possible in the cellar, contrary to the big firms.
He treats Grenache as if it were Pinot Noir, so there’s a decent proportion of whole bunches in the ferment. There’s also a high degree of open-topped fermentation, as well as regular hand-plunging.
Open-top fermentation allows lots of contact with oxygen, but the wine doesn’t oxidise due to the regular movement of the grapes. Regular hand plunging of the grape solids under the juice’s surface may be labour intensive, but it certainly pays off.
Not all wines deteriorate fast once opened
When I got back to the UK, I started presenting some of the wines at customer tastings. I ended up with one or two bottles left over and promptly forgot about them. A fortnight later, I was pulling some samples for another event and found one of the Grenache samples. It was minus a quarter of the liquid with its screw cap firmly in place.
Thinking that it must be oxidised, I was about to tip it down the sink when I decided to humour myself and taste it. To my sheer amazement, far from being oxidised, the wine had barely changed at all. It’s vibrancy and silky fruit was still very much intact. No prizes for guessing what I drank that evening!
This was a valuable lesson in why you should never make assumptions. I should, however, point out that this is not typical and is only likely to apply to other similarly made wines.
Worth noting that dessert wines are largely resistant to oxidisation due to their high residual sugar levels.
Oxygen’s negative effects on wine
Everyone will have experienced an oxidised wine at some time or another.
Open a bottle of wine, drink some, then close it up and come back to it a few days later. What do you notice? The wine has probably lost some of its freshness and may even taste a bit sour or bitter. If left for even longer, the effects become even more obvious.
Some rosé and red wines might even show an orange tinge around the edge of the wine glass.
Leave the wine for maybe a week or two and it’ll start to smell and taste more like sherry. This is the effect that oxygen has on wine over time.
Very occasionally, you’ll find these characters as soon as you open a fresh bottle. This tells you that the closure is faulty whether it’s under natural cork or screw cap.
Should this wine smell like vinegar?
If the wine smells of vinegar or even nail polish, it means there’s an excessive presence of ‘volatile acidity’.
VA is a natural bi-product of winemaking and usually exists at low levels, so it remains undetectable. But high levels indicate that bacteria have reacted with the oxygen in the wine and created acetic acid.
Now the wine’s only fit for salad dressing, putting on your French fries or cleaning the bathroom!
It’s a fact. Sauvignon Blanc is one of the world’s most widely-planted grape varieties. We think of it as synonymous with New Zealand, because of its global popularity.
So it may surprise you to hear that it’s spiritual home actually lies in France. Yep that’s right, slap bang in the heart of the Loire Valley.
Let’s find out what makes Loire Sauvignon Blanc unique, how it tastes, the appellations to look for and what foods to pair them with…
What does Loire Sauvignon taste like?
Gooseberry, blackcurrant leaf and nettle are common descriptors used to describe the herbaceous profile of Loire Sauvignons.
Compared with their kiwi counterparts, they’re also more floral, think elderflower, and have a tighter, yet less pronounced acid structure.
The most prized examples from Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire (labelled Pouilly-Fumé), show the most minerality. Pouilly-Fumé takes it to the extreme, showing a characteristic flinty overtone.
Both appellations will generally benefit from at least 2-3 years bottle ageing to allow the wine to harmonise.
There’s no question about it, Sauvignons from the Loire taste very different to those from New Zealand.
Sauvignon Blanc appellations to look out for
Most of the region’s Sauvignon Blanc is grown in the eastern half of the valley. Beginning with the area surrounding Tours and eastwards into what’s known as the Centre region.
Moving from west to east, our first major appellation is AOC Touraine. These wines are easily some of the best value examples and are relatively easy to track down. A decent domain-bottled wine should set you back £10-12. While you can pick up perfectly good co-operative versions from about £7.
Two further Touraine scions worth seeking out are Touraine Oisly and Touraine Chenonceaux. Both are comparatively small in production terms but quality is superior, especially in Chenonceaux. The best Touraine wines balance floral, fruit and mineral characteristics giving them elegance and a refined feel.
Move along from Touraine and you can find the AOC’s of Reuilly and Quincy. It tends to be hotter and drier here than most of the other Central Loire appellations. Consequently, Sauvignon ripens earliest here.
The wines lean more towards a citrus (lemon and grapefruit) and floral profile with more pungent herbaceous notes. You can pick up a decent example of either wine around the £13-15 mark.
The Sancerre & Pouilly-Fumé lookalikes
Surrounding the famous neighbours of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are two very worthy AOC wines. Coteaux du Giennois to the north of Pouilly-sur-Loire and Menetou-Salon, abutting the south-western tip of Sancerre. Both show quality and characteristics that closely resemble their famous neighbours, but at friendlier prices.
Coteaux du Giennois reveals a linear, stony freshness and flavours resembling yellow-skinned fruits, including quince. While Menetou-Salon is a little weightier, with a musky tone and a Sancerre-like structure.
You can pick up a decent bottle of the former between £10-13 and Menetou ranges from £12-18. Although it is possible to find a couple around the £10 mark.
Pouilly-Fumé & Sancerre are the real deal!
Now onto the main event, Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre.
On the right-bank of the River Loire lies the town of Pouilly-sur-Loire, home to AOC Pouilly-Fumé.
Just to confuse matters, something the French authorities seem to excel at, there’s a separate appellation for Pouilly-sur-Loire. This is actually made from the local Chasselas variety and is something of a rarity these days. It doesn’t have anything like the definition of flavour or longevity of its more fashionable sibling.
“Did you know Sancerre was once famous for red wine?“
Directly opposite Pouilly-sur-Loire, on the other side of the river, lies the small hillside town of Sancerre. This is the name that helped put the entire region on the map around the Middle Ages. Though rather ironically, it was for red wines made from Pinot Noir.
When phylloxera wreaked havoc in the late 19th Century, vignerons made the switch to Sauvignon Blanc. The main reasons being that it’s more hardy and productive than Pinot.
The rest, as they say, is history. Although you can still find small quantities of rosé and red Sancerre made from Pinot.
The secret behind Pouilly-Fumé & Sancerre’s success lies in the soil
The common element that distinguishes Sancerre and Pouilly from the rest of the Loire crowd is soil. Or should I say, soils.
From chalky/limestone soils, known locally as terres blanches (with a higher marl content) to caillottes (which are more stony). They are part of the same band that runs from the white cliffs of Dover, through Champagne and nearby Chablis.
Flint, known locally as Silex, also features in both Sancerre and Pouilly, but more so in the latter. This is where that very distinctive smoky tone comes in. Some of the best wines from both appellations come from these unique soils.
Pouilly-Fumé & Sancerre’s flavour profile
The comparatively cool, continental climate helps to accentuate the steely nature of Sauvignon that’s produced in these sub-regions. Both wines tend to be very linear in style. That is to say they feel quite tightly-wound in the mouth, around a fine thread of acidity.
Sancerre can show exotic fruits and orange blossom, especially in warmer vintages. While Pouilly-Fumé leans more towards citrus fruits and gun flint. Both wines need a few years to evolve and anything from 5-10 years for the best cuvées.
Regional highlights – food & wine matching
As is often the way in Europe, wine evolution is closely linked to that of gastronomy. The wine styles that we see today are born from local and regional dishes established over decades, even centuries. The wines of the Loire are as versatile as they are varied, perfectly mirroring the multifarious culinary dishes.
Shellfish; such as oysters, scallops and clams, are a speciality up and down the river, particularly towards the western end. They’re the perfect match for the citrus, floral and flinty Pouilly-Fumés.
Freshwater fish have been caught and eaten here since pre-Roman times. They’re often served with a sauce like beurre blanc, so the floral and more mineral-edged Sauvignons pair beautifully. Namely Touraine, Sancerre and Menetou-Salon. Heartier fish stews are heavenly with a mature Sancerre from a decent grower with up to ten years bottle age.
There’s fossilised proof that goats existed in the region long before people. Consequently, some of the world’s finest goat’s cheeses hail from here. Quincy and Reuilly work particularly well with these. Crottin de Chavignol makes a stunning combo with a decent domain-bottled Sancerre.
A few Loire Sauvignons worth trying
Here are some of my favourite examples of Loire Sauvignon that are readily available through specialists:
Sauvignon de Touraine, Domaine Patrick Vauvy
Touraine Chenonceaux ‘La Long Bec’, Domaine des Echardières
