There’s nothing more frustrating or disappointing when you open one of your prized wines in front of your friends or family during a dinner party, and for whatever reason, the wine just isn’t right.
And you can almost guarantee it’ll happen when you’ve just spent the previous five minutes telling everyone how bloody good it was when you last tried it, how you’ve been keeping it for the past five years specially for an occasion like this and how it’s going to blow them away. Pah!
It can be anything from the wine being corked to smelling either of rotting vegetables or dodgy drains. Or it might just be going through a ‘sleep’ phase, which isn’t actually a fault and is impossible to predict, but we’re not concerned with this one right now.
So other than cork taint and oxidisation, which I’ve covered in separate articles, what are the other main wine faults to look out for and are there any cures?
Reduction – sulphurous aromas
If you open a bottle and you get that awful waft of rotten eggs or bad drains, this is the tell-tale sign of reduction. The opposite to oxidisation, reduction occurs when the wine hasn’t been exposed to enough oxygen, mainly during the winemaking process, so the naturally-occurring volatile sulphur compounds in the wine take over.
A mild case of reduction gives a faint smoky aroma/taste, a bit like a burnt match, and is actually considered by some to be complimentary, so it’s not altogether bad.
Mild reduction can be resolved by decanting the wine to allow it to oxygenate, or by stirring the wine with a silver spoon.
Exposure to heat (aka maderisation)
Before you think about shoving your wine collection in the loft or in a garage or shed that heats up in the summer, think again. Now this might sound obvious but you’d be surprised how easy it can be when you’re strapped for space indoors and you don’t have the luxury of a cellar or a large empty understairs storage cupboard. So if you’re like me, you’re constantly playing ‘musical wine’ every six months! Yep, it’s a pain in the ar$e.
If you do happen to forget about your wine and it receives continued exposure to heat for several months, you can expect two things to happen. Firstly, the volume of wine expands in the bottle and can force the cork out which then leads to seepage and oxidisation. Secondly, it slowly cooks or maderises the wine, which can give flavours like processed jam or even nutty caramel. Not great.
In Madeira, this heating process, known as maderisation, is actually encouraged but it’s definitely an unpleasant fault in table wine.
Secondary fermentation
Have you ever opened a bottle of still wine and heard a little hiss as the cork is drawn or screw cap comes loose? Take a quick sniff. If you can smell a yeast-like aroma, this is a sure sign of secondary fermentation. It usually means some residual sugar has got mixed in with the wine at bottling and then started fermenting again when it’s hit a certain temperature.
It’s worth noting that this can also be a deliberate side-effect in low-intervention wines where little or no sulphur has been used for stabilisation, especially in light, juicy reds.
Cowsheds and crystals!
Before you think I’m going off on a complete tangent, please bear with. In most cases these last two encounters aren’t really problematic and as such aren’t considered serious wine faults, nonetheless it’s good to be aware of them.
Farmyard aromas are generally found in red wines, especially from some of the old artisan producers in France, and in low doses are considered ‘acceptable’ as they add complexity to the wine. This is the presence of a wild ‘spoilage’ yeast called Brettanomyces or ‘Brett’ for short. This is generally linked to poor cellar hygiene and too much Brett is overpowering and can be seriously off-putting.
It’s not uncommon to see tiny crystals in your wine, especially if the wine’s been subjected to really cold temperatures for a prolonged period.
These are called tartrates and are harmless mineral deposits that form in unfiltered wines with a high mineral content. They don’t affect the taste of the wine at all and simply need careful decanting or being passed through a sieve.
A clue to the presence of tartrate crystals in the wine is finding them on the underside of the cork.
Next time you encounter a wine that doesn’t quite seem right, this handy reference along with the additional articles on corked wines and oxidised wines should help identify the possible cause. And perhaps more importantly, whether or not you can overcome it.
Nowadays we have to accept that if we want to enjoy good cool-climate Chardonnay, we’re going to have to spend upwards of £10/bottle. The sweet-spot for me is somewhere between £12-18.
Both independent merchants and some supermarkets will have a decent selection from around the world but remember, you generally get what you pay for.
I’ve deliberately included regions that fall outside of the above price criteria (just) as it’s good to be aware of them anyway, particularly if you want to step away from the well-trodden path. This list is by no means exhaustive and I’ve also included some examples of wines that I’ve personally drunk or tasted here in the UK that I can wholeheartedly recommend and either meets or beats the above pricing criteria.
FRANCE – Bourgogne (Burgundy)
White Burgundy is becoming less and less affordable, however there is still value to be found. Apart from a handful of straight Bourgogne Blancs, forget the Côte d’Or and head further south to the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais where you can find excellent drinking wines from appellations like Mercurey, Rully, Montagny, Pouilly-Fuissé (not to be confused with Pouilly-Fumé in the Loire) and of course Mâcon itself.
A decent Mercurey, Rully or Pouilly-Fuissé is still likely to set you back well over £18/bottle but there are plenty of options in Mâcon, where you’ll often see it hyphenated with a named village (such as Davayé, Charnay, Fuissé or Lugny) or simply the term ‘Villages’. Viré-Clessé is a standalone appellation for two villages that, prior to 1999, were formerly appended to Mâcon in the same way. These can also be very good value.
Mâcon-Lugny “Les Genièvres”, Louis Latour
Mâcon-Solutré, Maison Auvigue
Viré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes, Christophe Cordier
FRANCE – Languedoc
Head way down south into the warmer Languedoc region around Carcassonne and there’s some excellent Chardonnays coming from the elevated parts of this area, especially from the Limoux sub-region in the foothills of the Pyrenees where you’ll find both still and traditional-method sparkling wines, the latter labelled as Crémant. The still wines are some of the best value entry-level Burgundy lookalikes I’ve come across.
Montsablé Chardonnay, IGP Pays d’Oc
Château Rives-Blanques “Odyssée” Chardonnay, Limoux
Crémant de Limoux “Cuvée Royale” Brut, Divin’ Aude
England
Here in England we’re now producing world class Chardonnay in both still and sparkling formats. Especially along the same band of south-facing chalk and limestone slopes that run all the way from Champagne and Chablis in northern Burgundy, under the North Sea and re-appear in Essex and Kent. It then runs all the way across to Dorset, in an almost continuous ridge, along the South Downs. The best of these sadly fall outside of the price range for this piece, so I’ll be reviewing these separately.
Italy
Northern Italy is definitely worth a mention, especially in the Langhe hills of Piedmont, as well as the east coast region of Umbria, which is next door to Tuscany. As above, these generally fall outside of our price range, especially the ones that I’ve tasted and would recommend.
USA (California)
Believe it or not, California has the ability to produce cool-climate Chardonnays but they tend to be found closer to the coast or along one of the narrow river valleys where the Pacific sea breezes have a cooling effect and create a blanket of morning fog, which in turn slows down ripening.
Sonoma is perhaps the most famous region with the Russian River valley sub-zone being of particular note. With one or two notable exceptions, these are going to set you back an arm and a leg so you need to either head across to neighbouring Carneros or further down the coastline to parts of Monterey, Mendocino and Santa Barbara to find more affordable examples.
District 7 Monterey Chardonnay
Wente Vineyards “Morning Fog” Chardonnay, Livermore Valley
Frei Brothers Sonoma Reserve Chardonnay, Russian River Valley
Saintsbury Carneros Chardonnay
USA – Oregon
The Willamette Valley has deservedly earned its reputation for producing some world-class Chardonnays as well as Pinot Noirs with more than a nod to Burgundy. Not least because there’s geological and climatic similarities between the two regions. Sadly, they’re quite a bit over our budget too but good for an occasional splurge.
USA – Washington State
Next door to Oregon, this is the other ‘West Coast’ sensation in terms of cool-climate winemaking. The Columbia Valley is where the action’s at and we’re beginning to see one or two examples reaching our shores. While many are reaching lofty prices like Oregon, there is one worth seeking out.
Chateau Ste Michelle Chardonnay, Columbia Valley
AUSTRALIA – South Australia
In Australia, there are plenty of notable cool-climate sub-regions to explore starting with the Adelaide Hills in South Australia, especially within the Piccadilly and Clare Valley sub-zones. Anything from High Eden at the north end of the Barossa Valley is also well worth a punt.
Simon Hackett “Brightview” Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills
Victoria has a handful of trendy hotspots for Burgundian-looking ‘Chardy’s’ but these are well over the £15 mark sadly.
Mornington Peninsula, Strathbogie Ranges, the Macedon Ranges, Geelong and the Yarra Valley are all worth looking out for if you’re feeling flush and want something classy!
AUSTRALIA – Western Australia, NSW & Tasmania
Western Australia, due to its remoteness and proximity to the Pacific Ocean, arguably has the largest surface area dedicated to cool-climate winemaking on the continent. Margaret River turns out arguably the most iconic Aussie Chardonnays and as a result are perhaps the most accessible here in the UK although be prepared to splash the cash.
Elsewhere on the continent, it’s also worth considering Orange in NSW, which sits at very high altitude, and of course Tasmania, the coolest zone of the lot which makes some stunning examples of still and sparkling Chardonnays, but sadly few of these reach our shores and the ones that do tend to be out of our budget.
Philip Shaw “The Architect” Chardonnay, Orange, NSW
Vasse-Felix “Filius” Chardonnay, Margaret River
SOUTH AFRICA
Elgin, Hemel-en-Aarde and Elim are considered the coolest sub-regions of the Cape although there are also some fantastic, more restrained styles of Chardonnay coming out of Constantia and the more elevated sites in Franschhoek and Stellenbosch too. There’s definitely great value to be found here but there’s no shortage of more premium stuff if you’re feeling flush!
Chamonix Unoaked Chardonnay, Franschhoek
Newton Johnson Southend Chardonnay, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
Iona Chardonnay, Elgin*
* This falls just over budget but it’s absolutely worth it in terms of vfm!
ARGENTINA
Look for Chardonnay coming from the high-altitude region of Salta in northern Argentina as well as elevated sites within Mendoza, particularly in the Uco Valley.
Manos Negras Chardonnay, Los Arboles, Uco Valley
Viña Cobos Felino Chardonnay, Mendoza
CHILE
Chile’s Casablanca, San Antonio, Leyda and Limarí valleys turn out some of the best value cool-climate Chardonnays money can buy. They’re all exposed to the cooling ocean breezes as a result of the Humboldt current, creating a similar effect to that of Sonoma that I described earlier.
There’s also been a move to plant vines at much higher altitude inland, up to 2,000 metres asl, in order to gain the cooling effect.
Casas del Bosque, Reserva Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley
Indomita, Nostros Gran Reserva Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley
Matetic Vineyards EQ Quartz Chardonnay, San Antonio Valley
NEW ZEALAND
Last but by no means least, New Zealand. I’d pretty much leave it at that as the entire country makes fantastic Chardonnay. Again, these tend to be a bit more premium-priced, especially if you want the more prestigious single site wines, but for me the South Island is where the most exciting Chardonnays can be sourced, in Nelson, Marlborough and around Canterbury. That said, definitely don’t rule out the North Island’s Gisborne, Hawke’s Bay and Martinborough too.
Palliser Estate Chardonnay, Martinborough
Trinity Hill Chardonnay, Hawkes Bay
Two Rivers “Clos des Pierres” Chardonnay, Marlborough
Basil Fawlty’s response was priceless “I just uncorked it didn’t you see?”.
We might well laugh at Basil’s ignorance, however it’s still a phrase that can instantly silence fellow diners. Or initiate panic in the eyes of an inexperienced member of waiting staff, causing temporary paralysis.
I once had the discomfort of facing a stroppy and indignant somm who insisted that the wine was fine. When he finally agreed to replace the bottle, he brought the same one back thinking that I wouldn’t notice! Fortunately he’s in the minority, so don’t be put off making the call.
What the heck is corked wine anyway and why should we be aware of it?
Corked Wine: In Layman’s Terms
Let’s start with the facts.
Until recently, the equivalent of one bottle in every twelve sealed with a natural cork is said to be affected by cork taint, to some degree. That’s a pretty grim assessment.
At one end of the scale it’s blindingly obvious. The underside of the cork and the wine itself has a musty smell like wet cardboard or damp cellars.
You’re probably going to tip the wine away, or if you’re dining out, hopefully use the phrase of this blog title. Maybe resist tipping it away and I’ll explain why later.
At the other end of the scale, there’s no musty smell. In fact, there’s not much aroma at all. The vibrant fruity character you’re expecting is replaced with a slight bitterness and the fruit element is totally dumbed down.
You may end up drinking the wine but I bet you never buy it again. Why, because life’s too short to drink crap wine, right? This is the worst possible outcome for the producer who painstakingly made the wine!
So what exactly’s going on here?
Corked Wine: In Scientific Terms
Cork taint is caused by the presence of 2,4,6-Trichloroanisole or TCA for short.
It’s a chemical compound primarily found in corks, caused by the interaction between the naturally occurring bacteria or fungi, found in and around cork trees, with man-made chlorophenols.
“Chloro-what?”
The chlorinated (as in chlorine) phenolic (aroma-related) compounds can come from several sources. Either through absorption of pesticide or preservative treatments during the tree’s growth. Or during the sterilisation process before the corks are manufactured.
Unfortunately, it’s not just corks that can contain TCA. It can also come from within the winery too. On barrels, wooden beams, essentially anywhere there’s wood.
It literally only takes a minuscule trace to come into contact with wine for it to become tainted and spoilt. Entire vats of wine have been discarded because of TCA contamination, so the cost to the industry has been astronomical.
There are actually several other forms of spoilage which can occur in wines and I’ve covered these in a separate article. They have a whole different range of dodgy aromas or visual imperfections associated with them.
Misconceptions About Corked Wine
If you happen to find bits of cork floating in your wine after you’ve opened it, it doesn’t automatically mean the wine’s corked. It simply means that the cork is very dry and/or your corkscrew’s thread is too thick.
I always give the underside of the cork a quick sniff as it’ll usually reveal if the tell-tale sign of TCA is present. If the cork smells okay then the solution to your floating bits is just pour it through a tea-strainer or sieve and, hey presto!
Another misconception is that TCA only shows in wines bottled with natural cork. As explained above, it doesn’t just come from corks, although it is the main culprit. Cork manufacturers have worked tirelessly to find a solution to TCA contamination.
Over the past 2 or 3 years, two of the industry’s biggest manufacturers, Amorim and Diam, have claimed to have invented new treatment processes that now guarantee 100% non-detection.
Before You Tip That Corked Wine Away
An American professor of wine chemistry has come up with an ingenious way to eliminate the foul effects of TCA. Simply line a large bowl with cling film, pour in the wine and leave for a few minutes. Then pour carefully back into a jug or decanter.
All you need to know is that the polyethylene basically attracts the non-polar TCA molecules towards it, freeing the wine.
How cool is that!
Is the cork industry’s future assured? Will more premium estates continue to embrace screwcaps, which have become far more widely accepted? Or will packaging finally push the envelope and take a whole new direction altogether?
Cognac is one of the world’s most exciting and dynamic spirit categories. Slick advertising and cutting-edge packaging have helped to facilitate enviable sales growth.
But it hasn’t always been like this.
Cognac’s Dramatic Metamorphosis!
Until the mid-1990s, Cognac sales were heading in the same direction as the VHS recorder.
The association with white, middle-aged blokes combined with outdated packaging did little to attract new drinkers.
Bizarrely, the fortunes of this former aristocratic brandy were reversed by a most unlikely band of endorsees.
High-profile rappers including Snoop Dogg, Buster Rhymes and 2Pac, began referencing the ‘brown bottle’ and ‘Henny’ in their music.
After much-needed makeovers, the appearance of well-known brands in hip-hop videos became as synonymous as the bling.
My Own First Impressions of Cognac
Cognac first hit my radar in early 1997, at the tender age of 24, I’d recently been promoted to assistant wine buyer at Fortnum & Mason and given the entire spirits range to manage. A daunting yet exciting prospect.
One of the perks of the role was accepting invitations to tastings and launch events. Imagine that, being paid to drink expensive booze!
One such event was a Ragnaud Sabourin Cognac lunch at a swanky restaurant a short walk from the store. This turned out to be a blessing, for reasons that will become clear shortly.
Each of the four courses were paired with a progressively smooth and complex cognac. To round the meal off, an extra couple of rarities were thrown in with the coffee. The only reason I know I made it back to the buying office is that I was woken up by the cellar guys when it was time to lock up.
I still have my tasting notes from that lunch, well they certainly started as such. Sadly, I have absolutely no way of deciphering what those two rarities were like!
Cognac on the Rise
During the noughties, advertisers set their sights on the younger generation, particularly those with higher disposable incomes. They also focused on the emerging markets in the Far East. Turns out they have a particular penchant for high quality spirits.
Since the turn of the millennium, Cognac’s sales have boomed. Partly in tandem with the exponential growth in wine consumption. Partly because of the evolution of eye-catching packaging and partly through the development of the cocktail market.
Continued endorsements by pop and rap icons have also played a pivotal role, especially in the US market. The biggest brands have offered some seriously lucrative deals for these guys to act as brand ambassadors.
What Makes Cognac…Well, Cognac?
First and foremost Cognac is a type of brandy, which means that it’s distilled from grapes. The predominant variety is Ugni Blanc, supported by Folle Blanche and Colombard. If these are all sounding unfamiliar, don’t worry. There’s a good reason for that which I’ll come on to.
These grape varieties are highly acidic, low in fruit intensity and high yielding. Their flavour neutrality makes them the perfect base for distillation. Far less so for table wine.
To legally qualify as Cognac, the brandy must be double distilled in traditional, copper pot stills. They must also be aged for at least two years in oak barrels. The oak has to have been sourced from either the Limousin or Tronçais forests, both local to the Cognac region.
Most of the character of the final spirit actually comes from the ageing process. Which essentially means from the oak barrels, just as it is in rum and malt whisky production. They’re further refined by skilful blending of the different aged Eaux de Vies (the collective name for the distilled spirits).
Making Sense of Cognac’s Geography
Understanding Cognac is relatively straight-forward. You just need to get your head around some basic geography and key labelling terms.
We’ll come back to labelling in a minute but first, let’s talk geography.
Cognac is a commune located in the Charentes region of western France, just above Bordeaux. It falls under the French AOC system, which means that its production is strictly controlled.
There are six sub-regions within Cognac that can carry the famous name. Starting in ascending order of quality with Bois Ordinaires/Bois Communs, followed by Bons Bois. Next comes Fins Bois (the largest vineyard area or ‘cru’), then Borderies (the smallest ‘cru’). At the heart lies Petite Champagne and finally Grande Champagne.
The reference to Champagne has nothing to do with sparkling wine. It actually draws a parallel with the soils found in the Champagne region. Because they are almost identical to those found in these top two ‘crus’.
Ageing in Cognac
Think of ageing in Cognac as an indication of style and quality, along the same lines as Single Malt Whisky.
If the label displays three stars, or simply the term VS, you’re looking at a good entry-level brandy. The youngest spirit in the blend must be at least 2 years old.
More premium houses like Rémy Martin, Hine, Prunier and Hennessy set a much higher minimum age. This ultimately produces a smoother and more complex brandy.
VS is in fact an old English acronym for ‘Very Special’.
A VSOP or ‘Very Superior Old Pale’ is the next step up where the youngest spirit is no less than 4 years old. This category has been monopolised by Rémy Martin for years. Thanks, in no small part, to Oriental and Indian restaurants that fell hook, line and sinker for the revolutionary black frosted-glass bottle!
The terms Reserve and VO are seen infrequently but follow the same legal definition as VSOP.
Occasionally, you’ll see Napoléon cited on the label. This was pioneered by Courvoisier when they put aside a brandy for the famous French ruler, just after his abdication.
In quality terms, Napoléon Cognacs sit between VSOP and XO and must be at least 6 years old, but in practise they’re usually considerably older.
The final category is XO or ‘Extra Old’ which generally represents a quantum leap in quality and price from VSOP. Like Napoléon, the minimum aged spirit here must be 6 years old. In reality, they will be aged somewhere between 15-20 years on average.
These are the super luxy, aspirational Cognacs for connoisseurs, or those with deep pockets, and the packaging generally reflects this.
Dated Cognacs
Although rare, one or two houses also produce Cognacs from a single vintage, shown on the label. Hine is probably the best-known producer of these.
There are also Early Landed Cognacs, which are shipped in barrel to a bonded warehouse in England. These are aged under the watchful eye of HM Revenue & Customs. As well as showing the year in which the grapes were harvested, they also show the year of landing.
Due to the climatic differences between the UK and France, the early landed cognacs have a unique taste. They tend to be more floral, delicate and paler in colour than those aged in Cognac itself.
The Cocktail Scene
I was a relative latecomer to cocktails. This possibly had something to do with my 18th birthday which left me scarred for years. Waking up the following day with the mother of all hangovers thanks to a successive ‘cocktail’ of beer, various liqueurs and spirits was extremely grim!
During the mid-noughties, I had to bury the ‘cocktail hatchet’ and get re-acquainted. The wine agency business that I was working for inherited a portfolio of spirits due to a change of ownership. We worked with some pretty high-profile brands, Hine Cognac being one, so it certainly wasn’t all doom and gloom.
I recall tasting a variation of a Horse’s Neck where the whisky was subbed for cognac. I thought, “Bloody hell, this is good!”
Since then, other classics like Metropolitan, Sidecar and Stinger along with long mixers have really propelled cognac’s popularity. Over the past few years, especially through COVID, the major houses have experienced strong double-digit growth in all key markets.
It’s become abundantly clear that Cognac has succeeded in re-inventing itself and continues to appeal to a broader consumer base.
Whatever and however you drink your spirits, Cognac offers great versatility.
The spectrum of flavours and quality levels are broad enough to satisfy any palate. I’d even go so far as saying alongside whisky, they offer some of the best flavoured spirits in the world.
Champagne is a wine region steeped in history and bound by customary laws and practices. It is not typically renowned for its progressive attitude, or indeed, propensity for innovation.
After all, what incentive is there to change or improve something that clearly works. Something that’s tried and tested, not to mention tightly regulated. Something that allows you to sleep safely at night, because you’re not gambling on ideas that might make a difference. Or that might help towards a bigger and nobler cause?
Fortunately, there are movers and shakers in the region who are bold enough to question the status quo. Who are free-thinking enough to explore beyond the boundaries and who are humble enough to care.
Fortunately, there are movers and shakers in the region who are bold enough to question the status quo. Who are free-thinking enough to explore beyond the boundaries and who are humble enough to care.
Who is Pierre-Eric Jolly?
Thankfully Pierre-Eric Jolly, a fifth-generation family vigneron (grape grower and winemaker), is one such individual.
He joined the family Champagne business in 2000, aged 26, under the watchful eyes of father Hervé and grandfather René.
No doubt inspired by his ancestors’ independent spirit. For example great grandpapa Charles chose to remain independent when the village attempted to form a co-operative cellar in 1930.
Pierre-Eric is both an artisan, respectful of regional ancestral customs, and a forward-thinking innovator. He’s constantly seeking to find more efficient and sustainable solutions without ever compromising on quality.
Spend any time with Pierre-Eric and you become enchanted by his positive energy. Even his surname can’t fail to make you smile!
Pierre-Eric The Artisan
A firm believer in sustainability and self-sufficiency, Pierre-Eric’s 13.5 hectares of vines are farmed organically (certified). This means no use of chemical fertilisers, insecticides or pesticides whatsoever. All grapes are harvested by hand and come exclusively from his village, Landreville.
All the key vineyard and cellar tasks are conducted by the same, few, full-time employees. And that includes Pierre-Eric himself, so they are totally autonomous.
He doesn’t buy in any grapes, so his champagnes are a true reflection of the five Jolly-owned vineyards. These plots hold up to 30 year old Pinot Noir and up to 40 year old Chardonnay vines.
Every bottle of Champagne that Pierre-Eric makes, that’s about 35,000 every year, is disgorged by hand, not machine. This is the traditional way without freezing the neck, otherwise known as ‘a la volée’. He can disgorge 350 bottles in an hour so you can do the maths!
By the way, if you’re wondering where exactly Landreville is, it’s in the outlying Côte des Bar sub-region of Champagne.
Where is the Côte des Bar?
It lies in the Aube valley, around one and a half hours’ drive south of Champagne’s epicentre, Épernay. Geographically and geologically, it has more in common with the neighbouring region of Burgundy (Bourgogne) than with Champagne.
Viticulture is nothing new to this satellite area and evidence confirms the presence of vines as far back as the early 18th Century. Although most of the grapes were sold to the more established houses further north.
Overcoming the north/south divide!
This trend continued right through the 19th and early 20th centuries. When Champagne’s official classification was drawn up in 1908, the big houses rallied together to ensure the Aube was excluded. Well you can imagine how that went down.
In true French fashion, riots ensued and eventually, around three years later, the Comité relaxed their attitude. But only enough to grant the Aube second-rate classification Champagne deuxième zone. Talk about sour grapes! It took a further 16 years, until 1927, before this was finally adjusted to create a level playing field.
Perhaps this partly explains the fierce independence and entrepreneurial flair among Côte des Bar producers. Either way, it’s good for the region.
Pierre-Eric The Innovator
When you open your next bottle of Champagne, just take a moment to look at the cage (aka muzzle). You know, the bit around the cork once you’ve peeled off the foil.
You should see four vertical lengths of wire down the neck of the bottle. There’s also a horizontal piece that winds around the neck to hold it firmly in place.
The ‘Muselet-Y’ is Pierre-Eric’s own ingenious invention that he created back in 2007. It loses one of the lengths down the neck forming a Y-shape over the capsule.
He used it on all his champagnes between 2012 and 2014. The benefit is a 40+% saving in wire versus the standard muzzle. This, in turn, saves 92% in energy to produce. Imagine the saving across millions of bottles!
In 2013, a firm in Reims took over the patents. They’re aiming to roll out this energy-saving design imminently so keep your eyes peeled!
The carbon cap
In 2009, Pierre-Eric co-invented the carbon cap which sits under the Muselet-Y on his top cuvée Editio. This is a Champagne that spends no less than 15 years ageing before being disgorged and released to the market. The carbon cap is a clever luxurious touch that highlights Pierre-Eric’s penchant for detail.
I’m fortunate to be able to call Pierre-Eric a good friend and have known him on and off for the past 8 years. To find out about my first enlightening visit to his cellars in Landreville (August 2021) see Meet the Enigmatic Pierre-Eric Jolly
Despite sounding like the beginning of a Shakespearean soliloquy, I’m actually delving into the world of sweet wines. More precisely, the important presence of noble rot; Botrytis cinerea in Latin or simply botrytis for short.
What is Botrytis/Noble Rot?
Botrytis is a particular type of rot that occurs naturally under certain conditions. A warm climate and the close proximity of water creates mists that hang about the vineyards through the mornings. This damp, humid atmosphere encourages the growth of this unique mould. What stops it turning into the destructive grey rot is the evaporation of the moisture through the afternoon and evening.
Rather than tainting the flavour of the grapes, botrytis sucks out some of the water element. In turn, the sugars and acids concentrate under the shrivelling brown skins.
How are the Grapes Harvested?
The best producers will hand-pick these sticky, raisined grapes, on more than one passing through the vineyard. Harvesting can involve as many as eight or nine separate picks over a six to eight week period. This ensures that as many grapes as possible reach their optimum degree of ‘rot’ as ripening times vary. Even within the same bunch of grapes.
With production levels uneconomically low, this is an extremely high-risk and expensive way of producing wine. This goes some way towards explaining the high price tag compared with equivalent ranking dry wines.
The result in the bottle can be nothing short of exhilarating. It certainly helps if you have a sweet tooth and can cope with the wine’s rich texture and intense sweetness!
The Holy Trinity of Botrytised Wines
Arguably the best pudding wines can be found in Tokaji (Hungary), Sauternes (Bordeaux) and the Rheingau (Germany).
Tokaji
Tokaji, or Tokay (the English translation) is a region that spans northeast Hungary and southeast Slovakia. It’s home to the first wine to be made using botrytised grapes over 400 years ago. It has certainly stood the test of time and is a favourite among top wine merchants and restaurants worldwide.
The three main vine varieties that constitute Tokaji are Furmint, Hárslevelü and Yellow Muscat (aka Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains). All are planted close to the rivers Bodrog and Tisza, which help create the ideal conditions for botrytis to thrive.
The wines come in various grades of sweetness, measured in puttonyos or putts for short.
A puttony was a 25kg bucket that was filled with crushed nobly rotted grapes, known as Aszú. This was added to the barrel of dry fermented wine to start a secondary fermentation. Nowadays, the term refers to an equivalent amount of residual sugar.
The higher the putts level, the sweeter the wine. Up until 2014, Tokaji’s sweet wines ranged from 3 to 6 putts. However since then, both 3 and 4 putt levels were abolished by Hungary’s Tokaji trade council. These have been superseded with the term ‘late harvest’ or ‘szamorodni’.
Aszú Eszencia is made purely from noble rotted grapes and is the rarest, sweetest and therefore most expensive expression available. It has the ability to age for decades. Only the best Sauternes from the best vintages and the finest trockenbeerenauslesen from Germany can match this Hungarian nectar.
Sauternes
Sauternes lies within the Graves district of Bordeaux to the southeast of the city. Nestled between the Garonne and Ciron rivers, there are five communes that make up the region. Barsac is the only one allowed to choose between its own AC or the broader Sauternes appellation.
The famous 1855 classification of Bordeaux’ best châteaux included the cream of Sauternes and Barsac too. It identified no less than 9 First Growths (vs just 4 for red Bordeaux) and 11 Second Growths. Additionally, the special designation of ‘Superior First Growth’ was created solely for Château d’Yquem. Recognition for this extraordinary estate, singling it out from every other Bordeaux wine producer.
Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle, in that order of importance, are the three permitted grape varieties. Sémillon is especially susceptible to botrytis while Sauvignon adds acidity and Muscadelle, perfume.
Rheingau
The first late harvest wine made from nobly rotted grapes in Germany came from the Rheingau region. The historic Schloss Johannisberg estate made the ‘accidental’ discovery in the mid 1770’s. It sparked a new wine style that has been revered and replicated here, and in other German regions ever since.
So what makes this small region so special? The simple answer is geography.
We’re talking about a mere 18 mile east/west stretch of the River Rhine between Wiesbaden and Bingen-am-Rhein. The Taunus mountain range on the north bank of the river provides the perfect south-facing slopes for viticulture.
The vineyards mostly run vertically with the gradient, while the steepest sections are terraced and run obliquely. With maximum exposure to the sun, the grapes have no trouble ripening. There’s a wide variety of soil types across the valley too which highlight the distinction between each ‘Lage’, or ‘vineyard’.
Riesling is king in the Rheingau. Proportionately, at nearly 80%, there’s a higher concentration of this variety than in any other German wine region. The wines here tend to be fuller, richer and more exotic in flavour than elsewhere. The sweetest wines can evolve almost indefinitely when cellared properly.
Other Notable Noble Rot Wines
From Bordeaux
I’ve already referenced the village of Barsac which has some excellent properties. These include the likes of Châteaux Climens, Coutet and Doisy-Védrines. The style here is a little more delicate and refined, when compared with Sauternes, but there’s still great intensity.
If you want to bag a bargain, look out for St Croix du Mont and Loupiac. Both lie on the opposite side of the river Garonne and deliver lighter versions at a fraction of the price.
Sémillon is the common denominator that links all of these wines.
From Loire
In the central vineyards of the Loire Valley, you’ll find Vouvray, Coteaux du Layon, Bonnezeaux and Quarts-de-Chaume (Loire’s only Grand Cru). All are exemplars of much more florally-scented sweet wines from the Chenin Blanc variety.
From Alsace
Heading east into Alsace, it’s the late harvest Rieslings, Gewurztraminers and Pinot Gris’ that provide the wow-factor. These are classified as Vendange Tardive or Selection de Grains Nobles.
From Germany
German labelling can be challenging so for the best sweet wines, look for the terms Auslese, Beerenauslese (Ba) or Trockenbeerenauslese (Tba) . Expect to pay a hefty whack for the best but the reward you get in return is totally worth it. Especially if you research your producer and vintage before parting with your cash.
All three styles are affected to varying degrees by noble rot. Auslese being the lowest concentration and Tba the highest. Like the putts system in Tokaji, these correlate directly to the minimum level of residual sugar in the final wine.
The real beauty of these wines is their naturally lower alcohol levels, generally ranging between 6.5-10.5% abv. There’s absolutely no risk of their powerful and complex flavours being masked by alcohol. I’ve witnessed the great Ernie Loosen declare on several occasions, “you can drink yourself sober with these wines!”.
Other countries to look out for in terms of botrytis-affected wines are Austria (with similar classifications to Germany), Australia, Chile, Italy, New Zealand, South Africa and the US.
The Best Way to Enjoy Them
This is always an entirely subjective thing but here are some ideas to help get you started.
The general rule when matching sweet with sweet is not to let the food outdo the wine. So, for example, you might pair a German auslese with a baked fruit tart, like an apple strudel. A rich, 6 putts Tokaji works with an equally rich, dark chocolate cake with marmalade.
Equally you could go the other way and put the wines against savoury or even spicy, fragrant dishes. Thai or Szechuan food and sweet Riesling or Gewurztraminer works brilliantly, as does a rich pâté with Sémillon or Tokaji.
Cheeses, especially creamy blues, work beautifully with the Loire Chenins. I can still clearly recall a lightbulb moment when I tasted an exceptional Coteaux du Layon with a creamy Roquefort!
The one overarching piece of advice I would give is not to serve these wines too chilled. To appreciate the full spectrum of flavours in these spectacular wines, treat them as you would a fine dry white. That is about halfway between fridge and room temperature.
