Continuing my notes on this rising star, here’s where I got more than a glimpse of some of the mid to higher end wines as well as a couple of great value Pinots worth seeking out.
Here are my thoughts on the seven reds tasted and when I think they’ll be best enjoyed (in the same order tasted):
2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Les Fortunés
Lovely lifted aromas of cherry, raspberry and blueberry come straight from the glass. In the mouth, you almost get the sense that it hasn’t been manipulated. It’s fresh and vibrant with bright fruit and nicely rounded, light-weight tannins. The fruit is neither savoury nor sweet, it just feels very harmonious. A fine example of a Régionale Bourgogne that punches above its weight. Ideal now until 2024.
2018 Santenay Les Cornières
The heat of the vintage shows in this wine in the form of its advanced development. There’s a whiff of farmyard and gamey aromas that are characteristic of ageing Burgundy. In the mouth, I can taste slightly stewed black cherries, like you’d find in a baked pie. The tannins are earthy and grippy, perhaps a little rustic. There’s a touch of astringency on the finish but not in a bad way. There’s a nice density to the wine that would certainly pair well with quite richly flavoured dishes. I’d be tempted to drink with a meaty dish in order to soak up the tannins. Ideal now until 2024.
2019 Santenay Premier Cru Beaurepaire
There’s a distinctive aroma of wild mushroom with assorted red berries that I find really appealing. This is quite a step up from the previous wine in terms of its multi-layered texture, ripe grippy tannins and its overall brightness and expressive fruit flavours. Like its white counterpart, I enjoyed this a lot. Enjoy from 2023-32+.
2019 Givry Premier Cru Le Champ Lalot
A south-east facing vineyard at the northern edge of the appellation. The aromas are full and expressive with violets and blackberry notes dominating. Reminds me a bit of the 2018 Mercurey Les Caraby that I recently drank but this doesn’t have the opulence due to the vintage difference. Also, a little more delicate on the finish. Ideal now until 2024.
2019 Maranges Premier Cru La Fussière
The Maranges AOC is relatively new (granted in 1988) and lesser known too, so has become popular with young winemakers who can’t afford the land prices elsewhere in the region. It spans three villages, Cheilly-lès-Maranges, Dezize-lès-Maranges and Sampigny-lès-Maranges and includes 7 Premier Crus of which this is one. There’s the faintest hint of farmyard on the nose mingled with mixed red fruits which I really like. The tannins are ripe and well-knit with the acid and fruit. This is actually quite delicious and terrific value. Ideal now until 2026.
2014 Échezeaux Grand Cru
One of the larger Grand Cru vineyards in the region, quality is notoriously variable but the source here is clearly very good. There’s some lovely development and the aromas are heady and powerful. The wine evolves slowly in the glass and I can detect roasted fennel, grilled meat, coffee and nuts. There’s great complexity and the flavours are big. There’s plenty of wild berries with that meatiness and the warmth of roasted coffee on the finish. Elegant and silky, this is a treat. Ideal now until 2034+.
2013 Chambertin Grand Cru
One of the smaller Grand Cru vineyards and considered one of the finest, soils consist of chalky, pebbly topsoil over a largely limestone base. Like the Échezeaux, there’s plenty of development here both in terms of colour and aroma. Incredible perfume leaves the glass and has you seduced immediately so that you know you’re in for something special! This is elegant, refined and charming with gentle power and immense concentration of mixed red fruits, spices, a touch of sandalwood and dark chocolate on the finish. The flavours linger long in the mouth after swallowing and the perfume carries on with them. I feel like breaking into poetry! Ideal now until 2038+.
Whilst I’m coming down from my Chambertin ‘high’ and trying to work out how much I can justify spending on bottles to put away back at home, I tell Nicolas that we would very much like to revisit the main cellars in Bouzeron on a future trip as I’m keen to spend some time with Max, to find out more about his influence and his aspirations for these fabulous wines.
- For more background on this progressive producer, click here
- For my notes on the whites tasted, click here
